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This video shows a Dura-Seal repair on a newer model Sebring v6. This vehicle had tons of steam and coolant loss. In just a short time All symptoms are gone and the engine's running fine. This really is amazing stuff. We've tried other-brands and none compare to Dura-Seal... John's Auto Care S.C. 2010
Replacing intake gasket... (From: C.J. Member-198732 - 09:38am)
anyone have any tips on replacing the intake gasket? i can see where coolant has leaked out from underneath and come out the sides of the motor beneath the intake gasket.. probably a bad definition but yall probably know what i mean.. i know its a common 3100 motor problem, so im sure theres a nice writeup on it somewhere... anyone?thanks
Re: Replacing intake gasket... (From: R.H. Member-59765 - 11:58am)
1) Take your time especially if this is the first time. A manual is also useful2) Label wires as you remove them3) Raise the engine and remove the RH motor mount to move the power steering pump out of the way.4) When disconnecting the fuel line from the rail be very careful not to lose the green o-ring5) Pull the intake manifold followed by removing the pushrods and rotating rocker arms6) Stand the pushrods in a box the same way they came out. I use a screwdriver and punch 12 holes in an old box. Make sure you write on the box cyl. 1, front of car etc. It is extremely important that you do not mix them up.7) Clean all gasket surfaces properly.8) Use pipe dope on your intake bolts. I also added serviceable loctite.9) Torque all bolts to the new GM specs. See below10) Oil the fuel injector o-rings when reinstalling and make sure they are properly seated.11) Change your plugs, wires, belt and thermostat now that you have full access to all these things.I pulled this document from the forum a while back…..not sure who originally posted it.Document ID# 1396678
This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).ConditionSome owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids. CauseIntake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.
Re: Replacing intake gasket... (From: A.W. Member-6682177 - 13:58pm)
Just did this repair. Special thanks to NickXXX for starting this thread and Bearcatdon for all that good info!!! 1st I'd heard for the warning about the tightening sequence. Note: My torque wrench took a dump so I did the job without it. I paid alot of attention getting all the bolts torqued the same. Much to my suprise I've had no problems whatsoever. I guess I've had enough troubles in the past. Somebody likes me. If I had to do it over I would be smart and get a torque wrench though.p.s. don't lose the fuel inlet O-ring. Chevy dealer charged me 8 bucks for it.again thanks for the good info on the threadcheers
Re: Replacing intake gasket... (From: V.H. Member-587665 - 15:58pm)
I am to the point in this job where i need to remove the lower intake. I cannot free up the fuel rails in order to do this. I did not want to mess with the connections towards the master cylinder, or remove the fuel rails/injectors so I loosened the connections towards the right side of the rails (looking at the front of the car) but i can't get the rear fuel rail connections loose? Anyone else have this problem??Also, I saw that many people ref the new GM gaskets, I was planning on using the Felpro ones available from AutoZone and the bolts that I removed, a good idea??Thank you in advance. Desperate to fix this POS.Tom
If you follow the fuel rail you'll find that it is bolted on the lower side of the engine. This nut is very difficult to see. I left it on when disconnecting the fuel rail while cursing but could not get the threads to line back up. After what must have been about an hour of cursing and sleeping on it, I noticed it the next morning. Seeing it is half the battle, removing and replacing is the other. When you do finally get it undone, keep your eye on the green o-ring. The second job that I did for a friend I still didn't see it pop out even though I was looking for it. I later found it on the block.I used Auto Zone parts and the original bolts which I cleaned, pipe doped and set with serviceable locktite. Knock on wood, that was 50,000 miles ago no leaks on mine or my buddy's.
Re: Replacing intake gasket... (From: C.J. Member-198732 - 17:38pm)
Bear with me as I talk through your directions....If i am looking at the fuel rail as it is attached to the lower intake manifold I see 2 main sections, imagine x axis front and back. They are connected permanately by a section on the left hand side, y axis. On the right hand side there is a return line, fuel pressure regulator (connected to front rail) and in back the feed line with an odd bolt that screws into the fuel rail. If I loosen that bolt isn't there a way to remove that feed line? If I picture the way you describe i follow that Feed line down along the block but eventually I hit a plastic sleeved section. Apparently I am lost.
The large line closest to the firewall is your inlet. I believe I used and adjustable wrench to remove it because I didn't have anything else large enough. This is the one with the O-ring. To loosen the other end, I removed the fuel regulator from the rail. The nut that I was referring to fastens the two fuel lines together with a small bracket to a stud on the side of the engine. It's hard to see because it's in between the exhaust manifold and engine. Once this bracket is removed you'll have lots of freeplay in the lines. I believe the nut was an M8 (13mm socket). If all of these things are loose the lines should come out. You may have to give them a good tug. The rails will also give you lots of resistance. Although I hated doing it, I had to put a pry bar between the intake and fuel rail and pry like mad. Those dry injector seals don't like to budge.
I think I am on the same page with you now. The Return Line can be disconnected at the rail, I have been able to do that. As for the Feed Line what you are saying is that this must be disconnected at the firewall? I did not see that connection. What I saw on my car was a section about 10" from the firewall with some type of crazy connection that I do not know how to remove. I noticed that part that attached the line to the block. I do not plan on removing the fuel rail or injectors at all. This job can be done without doing that at all. Thank you.